What to Look For

All the sparkling gold and diamond jewelry on the market takes its toll, both on the environment and the people who work in the mines. Do your part by supporting ethical jewelers who use recycled precious metals, responsibly mined gemstones and some of the other materials listed below.

Antique, vintage or pre-owned: These "estate" jewelry pieces—or family heirlooms—are the most ecological choice, simply because no new materials were mined to make them. Diamonds rarely depreciate in value, and you can add sparkle to old rings simply by boiling them.

Recycled metals: According to the environmental nonprofit WorldWatch Institute, 80 percent of destructively mined gold is used for jewelry. Look for recycled gold, silver, titanium and platinum and other recycled materials, like glass and leather, used in more casual pieces.

Diamonds from Canada and Australia: African diamonds may be associated with the conflict diamond trade.

Gemstones from Kenya, Madagascar, Israel, India, Belgium and South Africa: Gemstones mined in Myanmar (Burma), which supplies some of the most valuable rubies, jadeite and semi-precious stones in the world, come from mines rife with forced labor and human rights abuses.

Pearls: Pearls have a relatively low impact on the environment. Cultured (or farmed) pearls have even been used to clean water and reduce heavy-metal pollution.

Shopping Tips

• When buying diamonds, always buy from reputable retailers that you trust and who can attest to the origins of the gold, diamonds and gemstones they sell.

• If your jeweler sells African diamonds, ask for the supplier's name and if he or she can provide a Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) "Certificate of Origin." Shipments of diamonds from Kimberley Process participating countries are shipped with these certificates, which state that the diamonds came from government-controlled areas where conflict diamond mining is at a minimum. Participating countries, including the U.S., are allowed to trade only with other Kimberley Process participants.

• The KPCS has been criticized for being too lax, and often, jewelers don't have certificates of origin on hand. If that's the case, ask your jeweler which company supplies the store's gold and diamonds, and research that particular supplier's standards and policies before purchasing.