Crazy for Nuts

Try to find a definition of the word nut and you just may go crazy. Botanists and the general public disagree on just exactly what a nut is. Botany aside, from a culinary standpoint, nuts are dried seeds that can be eaten raw, toasted, pureed or used as flour. There are many different types of nuts—almonds, Brazil nuts, cashews, filberts (also known as hazelnuts), macadamia nuts, pecans, pistachios, walnuts and pine nuts. Two legumes, peanuts and soybeans are also considered nuts; soybeans only when they are dried and toasted.

Extraordinarily versatile, nuts can be eaten raw or toasted as a snack, pureed to make nut butters, used as a crunchy garnish for cooked foods, mixed with sugar to make confections and tossed into salads. They can add body to sauces and have traditionally been ground into flour and added into doughs.

Humans have consumed nuts for tens of thousands of years and for good reason. They are high in protein and healthy fats. Nuts provide magnesium, which helps maintain bone structure and chromium, which helps to insure proper insulin function. Nuts also provide zinc for growth and wound healing, and manganese, which protects against free radicals. All nuts are a good source of Vitamin E, an important antioxidant. Like all plant foods they also contain fiber and phytochemicals—both of which help protect against cancer and other chronic diseases.

The high fat content of nuts also provides a feeling of satiety, so in spite of the fact that they are high in calories, eating just a few nuts really satisfies. I have the miserable habit of longing for a snack around 10:30 pm every night. I know it isn't good for me to eat so late and yet the urge is so strong that I can barely control myself. I recently sought the advice of a nutritionist and fellow instructor at New York University and he suggested that when those munchies hit that I have a small handful of nuts. It was great advice. When I pop a few nuts into my mouth, I feel completely sated, and I have the satisfaction of knowing that eating five ounces of nuts per week will significantly reduce my risk of having a heart attack. Nuts are also a good source of calcium.

Nuts are sold in many different forms. Whole nuts, still in their shells are less expensive and will last up to a year without going rancid, just make sure to keep them in a cool, dry place. Once nuts have been shelled, they should be kept in the refrigerator. If you plan on storing them longer than six months, put them in the freezer. You can purchase nuts sliced and chopped, this may save you some work but it will also insure that those nuts will go bad faster. Whenever possible, purchase whole shelled nuts and cut them up your self.

All nuts are covered in a thin skin, much like my husband. For esthetic reasons we often remove the skin from hazelnuts and almonds. When you buy blanched almonds, the nut processor has removed the skin for you. To remove the skin from almonds, place them in a bowl, pour boiling water over them and let them sit for a minute or two. To see if they are ready, test one—the skin should peel off very easily. Removing the skin from hazelnuts is a bit more difficult. Place the hazelnuts on a cookie sheet and toast them in a 350-degree oven for about 7-10 minutes. Pour them into a clean dishtowel and holding the towel like a pouch, rub the hazelnuts together. This process can be repeated for nuts that have stubborn skin.

Toasting nuts brings out their flavor and many recipes call for toasting the nuts before adding them into a dish. Due to their high fat content, you don't need to add additional fat when toasting them. Just place them on a cookie sheet in a 350-degree oven until they smell good, anywhere from 10-20 minutes. Nuts will burn easily, so make sure to check them frequently. Once they are toasted, remove them from the hot pan immediately or they will overcook.

A note about allergies: peanuts and tree nuts are both on the Food Allergy and Anaphylaxis Network list of the eight most common allergens. Children are more likely to develop allergies if their parents or siblings suffer from allergies, but even those with no family history of allergies are susceptible. The American Academy of Pediatrics recommends that particularly in families with histories of peanut allergies, nursing mothers should not consume peanuts and tree nuts. The American Academy of Allergy Asthma and Immunology also recommends that children under the age of three not eat peanuts.

Nuts are one of those foods that are delicious in a decadent sort of way and yet they're good for you. What a great combination.

The following recipes were adapted from Nuts—Recipes from Around the World that Feature Nature's Perfect Ingredient by Linda and Fred Griffith.

For twenty years Linda and Fred Griffith have been professionally involved together in the world of food. Linda conducts a food and wine forum on Cleveland Live, the major web site for the promotion of Northeastern Ohio and over the years has had numerous free-lance writing assignments on food, wine, travel and books. Fred is currently with WKYC after over 33 years on the staff of WEWS where he held a variety of positions, including host of the two hour Morning Exchange for over 26 years.

Nuts was published in the spring of 2003 by St. Martin's Press. Their earlier works are The Best of the Midwest (Viking, 1990), The New American Farm Cookbook (Viking 1993), Onions Onions Onions (Chapters 1994), Cooking Under Cover (Chapters 1996), and Garlic Garlic Garlic(Houghton Mifflin, 1998.) Their onion book was the winner of a James Beard Award.

They both write regularly for Currents, a widely circulated life style publication in greater Cleveland. Check out their website at www.lindaandfredgriffith.com

Spicy Potato Salad with Cashews and Tomato Cucumber Mint Raita
Serves 6 to 8

The Raita
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/2 English cucumber, peeled, grated, and drained for at least 1 hour
1/2 medium-sized Spanish onion, finely diced
2 large tomatoes, seeded and finely diced
2 cups plain yogurt, preferably whole milk
2 teaspoons dried garden mint
1 teaspoon cayenne
1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt

The Potato Salad
18 to 24 small fingerling potatoes, scrubbed
water to cover the potatoes
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup cashews
1/4 cup vegetable oil or ghee
kosher salt to taste

Method
To make the raita: Combine the cumin, coriander and fennel seeds in a small skillet and stir over medium heat until fragrant. Remove them from the heat and let them cool; then grind the spices to a powder. In a mixing bowl, combine the spice powder, cucumber, onion, tomatoes, yogurt, mint, cayenne, pepper, and salt. Blend together well. Cover the bowl with plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

To make the potato salad: An hour before serving, combine the potatoes and water to cover in a large saucepan. Bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat to an active simmer. Cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Drain and quickly rinse with cold water.

Carefully cut the fingerlings in half crosswise, placing them in a large bowl. Toss with half of the raita. When cooled, toss as much remaining raita as you like. Adjust the seasonings, adding salt and pepper to taste. Just before serving, combine the nuts and oil in a small skillet. Toss over medium heat until nuts are just golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the nuts to paper towels. Blot well, toss with some salt, and add to the potatoes. Serve with anything spicy from the grill.

Lacquered Hazelnut Salmon
Serves 8

Ingredients
1/2 cup teriyaki sauce
1/2 cup maple syrup
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons hazelnut oil
1 small shallot, peeled and cut up
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice mix
3 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
3 to 4 pounds salmon fillet, preferably 1 inch thick, cut into portions
minced fresh cilantro for garnish
fresh limes, cut into wedges
1/2 cup coarsely chopped toasted hazelnuts

Method
One hour before cooking, prepare the lacquer: In the bowl of a food processor combine the teriyaki sauce, maple syrup, 1/3 cup hazelnut oil, shallot, garlic, ginger, Chinese five-spice mix and pepper. Puree. Scrape the mixture into a bowl.

Arrange the fish, skin-side down, on a platter and paint generously with lacquer mixture. Refrigerate the fish, and paint at least three more times before cooking.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Coast a large, shallow baking sheet with the remaining hazelnut oil. Arrange the salmon fillets, skin-side down, on the baking sheet. Paint with lacquer one more time. Bake in the preheated oven for 18 to 22 minutes, or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork.

Serve on heated plated garnished with cilantro, lime wedges, and hazelnuts.

Karithopita: Greek Walnut Syrup Cake
Makes about 36 pieces

The Cake
3 cups cake flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
finely grated zest of 1 orange
1 pound English walnuts, finely ground
1 stick (1/4 pound) unsalted butter
1-1/4 cups superfine sugar
10 eggs plus 1 egg white, separated
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup whiskey
The Syrup
5 cups water
3 cups superfine sugar
1 cup honey
1/4 cup orange juice

Method
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Thoroughly butter a 13x9-inch baking pan.

To make the cake: In a large bowl, combine the cake flour, baking powder, cinnamon, orange zest, and ground walnuts.

In another bowl, cream the butter and sugar. Add the egg yolks and beat until mixture is very creamy and light in color. Beat in the vanilla and whiskey. Add the flour and nut mixture and blend thoroughly. Beat the egg whites until they form stiff, but not dry peaks. Add a quarter of the egg whites to the nut mixture and blend thoroughly to lighten int. Then fold in the remaining egg whites. The batter is quite heavy, so be patient.

Spread the mixture evenly in the prepared baking pan. Bake until firm and the cake has pulled away from the sides of the pan, about 30 minutes. The top will not be well-browned. Transfer to a cooling rack and, using a thin skewer, poke many holes in the cake.

While cake is baking, make the syrup: Combine the water, sugar and honey in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the mixture has some viscosity to it, about 20 minutes. Stir in the orange juice. Slowly spoon over the syrup evenly over hot cake. Let it stand for at least an hour before serving.