In a Summer Pickle

For those of us living in the North East, the start of summer means that our farmers' markets are coming alive again. We are beginning to see radishes, green tomatoes, kohlrabi, carrots and baby turnips replacing the ubiquitous apples, and root vegetables that have been the staple items in the farmer's stalls through the winter.

As the selection in the market changes, we forget about hearty preparations like stews and braises and embrace quicker cooking and lighter preparations. One technique that is often overlooked in the early summer is quick pickling. And that is a shame because quick pickled foods are a great addition to a summer table, they can be used as condiments to grilled foods or enjoyed as cool summer dishes all on their own.

When you think of pickles, you probably picture a cucumber pickle served as a sidekick to a sandwich, but in fact there is a long tradition of pickling many different types of foods from fruit to fish. The wide variety of foods that are traditionally pickled is matched by the myriad methods used to pickle them. Pickle making can be roughly divided into two categories: quick pickles, which are consumed within a few hours or weeks; and slow pickles, which need to ferment for a long period of time before they can be eaten.

Pickling, like bread making, is one of those culinary pursuits that can seem too complicated to even attempt, but it isn't as mysterious or scary as it may at first seem. Pickled: Preserving a World of Tastes and Traditions, an engaging book written by Lucy Norris is a great introduction to the pickling tradition of cultures from around the world.

The book deals with the history of pickling as well as practical instruction in how to make homemade pickles. Ms. Norris includes pertinent information on the food safety issues involved in pickling, the basic equipment you will need for canning and a thorough description of pickling procedures.

She has also included many quick pickle recipes, which serve as a great introduction to the world of pickling without requiring the cook to have any knowledge of canning procedures. Quick pickles, since they are consumed soon after being prepared are less complicated to make and are often lighter in flavor which makes them perfect to enjoy in the summer months.

Pickled Cucumbers

Cucumbers are pickled in many different cultures and in fact are the most popular pickled vegetable in the world. Ms. Norris includes over 25 different cucumber recipes in her book. The following recipe is for a quick cucumber pickle flavored with mustard.

Gram's Crock Pickles
Makes 3 quarts

Ingredients
3 pounds Kirby cucumbers, small or large, scrubbed
4 cups cider vinegar
1/4 cup coarse salt (kosher or pickling)
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup powdered mustard

Method
Cut 1/4 inch from the stem end of each cucumber, then rub the cut ends together vigorously to remove any bitterness. Discard the end pieces, cut the cucumber in spears, and seed them. Tightly pack the cucumber spears in quart-sized jars or a ceramic pickling crock.

In a large non-reactive bowl mix together the vinegar, salt, sugar, and powdered mustard. Pour the brine over the cucumbers to cover, then screw the lids on the jars or cover the crock. Let the pickles rest undisturbed for at least 2 days, or until the bright green cucumbers turn light brown in color. They are ready to eat.

Store the jars in the refrigerator, or the crock, if using, in a root cellar or other cool, dark place. Kept cool, these pickles will stay crisp for about 1 month, but will remain edible for about 6 months.

Pickled Fruit

While it may seem unusual to Americans, fruits have been pickled for centuries. Indians pickle mangos, the Japanese pickle plums, in the Middle East lemons are pickled. Dates, watermelon, cantaloupe and peaches are also delicious pickled.

Quick Pickled Peaches
By Mary Snead
Makes 4 small servings

Ingredients
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons brown sugar, packed
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1-1/2 cinnamon sticks
1/2 tablespoon whole cloves
5 to 6 fresh peaches (1 pound), halved, pitted and peeled

Method
In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the brown sugar, vinegar, cinnamon sticks, and cloves; simmer for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until a thick syrup forms. Add the peaches, raise the heat to medium-high, and boil for 5 minutes. Pour the peaches and syrup into a large non-reactive bowl and let stand until cool. Cover the bowl with a plate, and refrigerate the peaches for 4 to 5 days before eating. They are best if consumed within 2 weeks. Pickled Mixed Vegetables For the more adventurous, I have included one recipe that does require sterilization of the jar the pickles will be stored in. This process is explained in detail in the book and I encourage anyone interested in pickling to follow those directions. Basically, sterilization involves placing the jar in a pot with water and bringing the water to a boil. Once the water boils, the jar is sterilized and ready to be used.

American-Style Okra, Cauliflower, Eggplant, Carrots and String Beans
Makes 1 quart

Ingredients
10-13 small okra, rinsed and trimmed
1 medium carrot, peeled and sliced
1/3 cauliflower, cut into florettes
1 Japanese eggplant, sliced
15-20 string beans, washed, trimmed, and cut into 1/3s
1-1/2 cups white distilled vinegar
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon coarse salt (kosher or pickling), or more to taste

Method
Make sure all of your vegetables are very dry or else the brine will become diluted with water from the veggies. Microwave the green beans on high for about 3 minutes so that any moisture evaporates. Wipe off any remaining moisture with a paper towel.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the vinegar, sugar and salt and bring to a rolling boil for 2 minutes to create a brine. Add all vegetables and continue to boil for another 4 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a clean bowl and let cool.

In the meantime, sterilize the jar and lid. Transfer the vegetables and brine to the jar, tightly screw on the lid, and store in the refrigerator. The mixture is ready to serve when cold. Refrigerated, this recipe will last up to three months.

The recipes included in this article were re-printed from Pickled: Preserving a World of Tastes and Traditions (Stewart, Tabori and Chang, May 2003) by Lucy Norris.

Ms. Norris received an M.A in Food Studies, and an interdisciplinary B.A. concentrating in Anthropology, Performance and Food from New York University. While still an undergraduate, she began interning with the New York Food Museum (a museum without a home) assisting with research and public relations for several city-wide exhibits and events including the History of the Federal School Lunch Program exhibit (Fall 2000), and then helped develop New York's Annual International Pickle Days. Pickled is the result of that work and three years examining family pickling traditions worldwide.