Caught in a Net of Confusion Over What Fish To Eat?

With each passing day it seems that even small decisions are becoming increasingly complex. Take dinner for example. Nutritionists tell us to increase our consumption of fish, especially those that are high in omega-3 fatty acids. Easy enough, just load your shopping cart with mackerel, salmon, swordfish, tuna or sturgeon, no problem right? Unfortunately, these fatty fish are among the species that contain the highest levels of mercury and/or are being dangerously over-fished. So, on the one hand we are encouraged to increase our consumption of these fish and yet, doing so would be bad for our health and that of our oceans (see "Fish Story")

Under these circumstances, it's easy to get discouraged. If you have been floundering around for a solution, you may want to check out One Fish, Two Fish, Crawfish, Bluefish: The Smithsonian Sustainable Seafood Cookbook ($35, Smithsonian Books, 2003). I like this book for two reasons; first, it takes a positive approach to the issue. The book doesn't dwell on species that we should avoid; instead the chapters focus on fish and shellfish that are healthy and sustainably harvested. Second, the book includes recipes from chefs across the country, making the exploration of unfamiliar species easy and fun.

The book includes 20 chapters, each focusing on a species, providing information about its history, present day harvesting, scientific names, common names, related species, purchasing, storing and cooking methods and all include recipes for that species. Proceeds from the sale of the book will support Smithsonian marine research and education.

My favorite chapter is the one on my favorite fish, sardines. Not only are they delicious, both fresh and canned they are also very good for you. They are high in omega-3 fatty acids, those good fats that have been shown to help prevent Type II diabetes and are also good for your heart and brain. In fact, a new study reported by the American Dietetic Assoc showed that people that eat fish once per week have lower rates of Alzheimer's disease. Canned sardines are high in calcium and are an alternative to the convenience of canned tuna or salmon.

While we think of sardines as a single type of fish, actually they are a group of fish that inhabit areas all over the world, from the coast of Norway to Japan and Australia to the Mediterranean. This may be one reason that they are not yet suffering from being over-fished. Sardines are related to herring and shad and are known by many different names. Small sardines are occasionally confused with anchovies.

When buying fresh sardines, look for fish with clear glassy eyes. When you get them home, if you're not going to cook them right away, make sure to store them properly. Rinse them under cold water, pat dry and wrap them tightly in plastic wrap (which protects the delicate flesh from the cold ice and more importantly, prevents oxygen from causing the fat in the flesh to go rancid). Next, place them in a colander over a bowl, cover them with ice, and put them in the refrigerator. This process will insure that the sardines stay fresh and delicious until you cook them.

Most likely, the fish monger will have scaled and gutted the sardines for you, but if not, it is easy to do. Start by running the fish under cold water, using your hands to rub the scales off. Next slit the belly open and pull out the innards. You don't have to worry about cutting off the heads, or boning the fish, once they are scaled and gutted they are ready to cook.

Canned sardines are one of my favorite convenience foods. While they can't be substituted for fresh in the following recipes, they are great for sandwiches, tossing into pasta, on bread or crackers and mixed into boiled potatoes among other uses. Canned sardines are sold packed in water, oil, mustard sauce or tomato sauce and can be salted or unsalted. While the mustard and tomato sauce versions can be delicious, I find them to be less versatile in the kitchen, so I prefer those packed in olive oil or water.

Jean Alberti, the Executive Chef/Partner of Kokkari Estiatorio in San Francisco wrote the following recipes for fresh sardines. All are reprinted with permission from One Fish, Two Fish, Crawfish, Bluefish: The Smithsonian Sustainable Seafood Cookbook, from Smithsonian Books, 2003.

Sardine Sampler
Serves 4

"Although the preparation may seem somewhat extensive, your efforts will be rewarded. The result is a stunning appetizer that is truly impressive and delicious. And if you are short on time, choose one to create (each component of the sampler is a tasty appetizer in itself) and multiply the ingredients by four."—One Fish, Two Fish, Crawfish, Bluefish.

Sardine and Beet Salad
Ingredients
8 whole fresh sardines, gutted
1/4 cup kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/4 cup sugar
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 sprigs parsley, finely chopped
1/2 bunch dill, finely chopped
1 medium red beet
1 Granny smith apple
1/2 small yellow onion
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons sour cream or créme fraiche
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Method
Scale and wash the sardines carefully, so as not to break the skin. Fillet the fish and remove the pin bones. Combine the salt with the sugar, lemon zest, parsley, and half of the dill. Sprinkle half of this mixture on a plate, lay the sardines on top, and cover with the remainder of the mixture. Refrigerate about 2 hours. In the meantime, boil the beet in salted water until soft. Cool and peel. Cut the apple, beet, and onion into 1/4-inch dice. Remove the sardines from the cure. Wash quickly, dry on paper towels, and cut the fillets into 1/4-inch pieces. To serve, add the diced sardines and the remaining chopped dill to the apple, beet, and onion. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Fold in the sour cream and mustard.

Oil-Poached Sardines
*prepare one day ahead

Ingredients
4 whole fresh sardines, gutted
salt
4 grape leaves, blanched
1 sprig dill
1 lemon, half cut into 1/4-inch slices, the other half juiced
1 cup olive oil
1 clove garlic
2 sprigs thyme
5 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Dill sprigs and julienned lemon zest

Method
Scale and wash the sardines carefully, so as not to break the skin. Fillet the sardines, leaving the 2 fillets attached by the tail. Close the fillets and season generously with salt. Lay a grape leaf on the work surface and place a sardine at the base of the leaf. Roll once from the bottom up. Fold in sides toward the center and continue to roll upward. Wrap the remaining sardines in the remaining grape leaves. Place them in a stainless steel or glass dish, lay the dill sprig and lemon slices on top, and sprinkle with lemon juice. Heat the olive oil with the garlic, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaf until it simmers. Pour the hot oil over the sardines and allow to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, place the sardines in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours before serving. To serve, transfer the wrapped sardines to plates. Unfold, leaving the leaves on the plates, garnish with dill sprigs and julienned lemon zest.

Grilled Sardines
Ingredients
8 whole fresh sardines, gutted
1 quart milk, optional
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 fine sprigs of rosemary
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 lemon

Method
Scale and wash the sardines carefully, so as not to break the skin. Fillet the sardines, leaving the 2 fillets attached by the tail. For a milder flavor, soak the sardines in milk for 1 hour before continuing with the recipe. Marinate the sardines with the garlic and olive oil for about 1 hour. Preheat a charcoal of gas grill to medium high. Prepare the rosemary skewers by sharpening one end with a knife. This makes it easier to pierce through the skin of the fish. Roll the fillets toward the tail and spike the rosemary skewer through. Grill the sardines quickly for about 1 minute on each side. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with lemon juice to serve. Variation: Bake sardines in a hot oven or pan sear on the stovetop in olive oil.