COOL Labeling: Helping Us Make Healthy Salmon Choices?

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In response, some salmon farms are going "organic" to address both health and environmental issues. From Ireland to British Columbia, farms are reducing densities of fish in pens, switching to organic and contaminant-free feed, and avoiding antibiotics and dyes. Some are "certified" under foreign standards like those of the UK's Soil Association , and many are touting their organic claims in the U.S. marketplace. But since there's no comparable U.S. organic standard for seafood, are such "organic" farmed fish a better choice? "To some degree they're probably better" says Leonard. But how much better? Leonard says there's no consensus on that, noting even the best salmon farms still impact the marine environment.

So what's the solution? Certification of fish farming in the U.S. is years away, and until such ambiguities are resolved, wild fish are the best option for buyers willing to pay the premium. Unlike farmed fish, wild fish don't come with concerns about antibiotics, contaminated feed or contributing to water pollution.

As for verifying it's wild, the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) label, which certifies Alaska wild salmon and tracks its chain of custody from harvest to retail, is one way consumers can know that they're getting the salmon they're paying for. Says Monterey Bay Aquarium's Leonard , "We support the MSC and would like people to buy products with their certification." Laura Fleming of the Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute also encourages consumers to be vigilant, ask questions, and find a trusted retailer. "90-95% of the US commercial salmon harvest is from Alaska, and most of this is harvested from May through September," says Fleming, adding, "Some of the harvest makes its way to the market fresh, however much of it is frozen in order to retain the quality, and offered to consumers throughout the year. A large number of salmon, mostly pink and sockeye salmon is also canned or pouched." When in doubt, consumers can also purchase directly from Alaskan seafood suppliers; for an online listing, see www.alaskaseafood.org . "You can always go right to the source," says Fleming.

Some Better Buying Options

For a list of where to find MSC-certified wild salmon: eng.msc.org/

MSC-certified Copper River Smoked Wild Sockeye salmon, 6 oz, $15.99, available at several health food stores and at www.seabear.com/.

MSC-certified Whole Catch Wild Alaskan salmon burgers 13 oz, $4.49, available at Whole Foods.

MSC-certified Wildcatch: Frozen (or fresh next-day delivery) Coho Alaska salmon fillets, $5.53/lb and for Sockeye fillet $6.19/lb, www.wildcatch.com/.

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