Safe, Not Sorry, Hair: The Case for Nontoxic Shampoos, Conditioners and Colors

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In response to the EU ruling, the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics is urging American companies to sign its Compact for Safe Cosmetics pledge to stop using dangerous chemicals. More than 150 companies, including Aubrey, Avalon, Burt's Bees and Terressentials, have signed. But as of July 2005, several mainstream companies had not. "We continue to be surprised by the lack of willingness on the part of major conventional cosmetics companies, like Estée Lauder, L'Oréal, Revlon, Avon, Unilever and Procter & Gamble, to make the commitment," says Janet Nudelman, coordinator for the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.

Complicating matters is an ongoing debate as to what constitutes a health risk. A May 2005 Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA) review of 79 studies did not find "strong evidence" of a "marked increase" in cancer among personal hair-dye users, even though risk of some cancers was significantly, though slightly, increased. But according to Tongzhang Zheng, M.D., head of the Division of Environmental Health Sciences at Yale University and an author of a 2002 hair-dye study examined by the JAMA reviewers, "The report ignored important information. Because [this report] didn't have original data from individual studies, the analyses had to select some results from each published paper," he says. The JAMA writers chose to include studies based on systematic criteria (such as the way the study was designed). As a result, however, the analysis left out some related research, such as a study Dr. Zheng published in the American Journal of Epidemiology in 2004. "In [that] report," he says, "we found that the risk of non-Hodgkin's lymphoma was doubled for those using darker permanent hair-coloring products for more than 25 years."

Until scientists agree as to what's risky (which may not happen soon), consumers can take the simple step of avoiding potentially dangerous ingredients. Below are some products that are in agreement with the EWG's safety concerns and that avoid chemicals on The Green Guide's Dirty Dozen list. "It's great to know that there are safe options out there," says Kapfer. "I don't have to compromise my health to look good."

Safe Shampoos

Not your traditional shampoo, Terressentials Organic Pure Earth Hair Wash in Fragrance Free, Cool Mint and three other varieties contains no synthetic ingredients or detergents. Made from Moroccan clay, this unique, non-lathering mud wash was ranked number one by the EWG. (www.terressentials.com, 8 oz., $10.75)

If you want to ditch the bottle, you can try a bar of Burt's Bees Rosemary Mint Shampoo. It contains oat protein, peppermint oil, nettle leaf, rosemary leaf, avocado oil and coconut oil. Plus the smell is totally invigorating. (www.burtsbees.com, 3.5 oz., $6)

The phthalate- and paraben-free Rosa Mosqueta shampoo from Aubrey Organics is great for color-treated hair. Added bonus: The rosy scent lasts all day long. (www.aubrey-organics.com, 11 oz., $9.50)