The Summer Burger Challenge

Plan a backyard barbeque and someone will call to remind you that she's vegetarian or doesn't eat red meat while others will complain if there isn't any "real food." How do you provide food that everyone can sink their teeth into and not spend all your time in the kitchen? Make three kinds of burgers—tofu, salmon and beef—something for everyone. And use the following mix to flavor all three. It's simple, and everyone will be happy, including you.

Duxelle
Yields 33/4 cups
1/4 cup olive oil
2 pounds crimini mushrooms, halved, stems trimmed
1 cup (about 8) diced small shallots
1/2 cup (about 1 head) quartered garlic cloves
1 tablespoon fresh marjoram leaves
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup red wine
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
(for vegetarian alternatives, try Henderson's Relish, www.hendersonsrelish.com)

In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat the oil over low heat. Add the vegetables and spices plus one tablespoon water and cook covered, over low heat, for 15 minutes. Remove lid and continue cooking for 10 minutes, or until most of the liquid has evaporated. Add the wine and Worcestershire sauce, turn up the heat to medium and cook, stirring frequently, for an additional 20 minutes or until all the liquid has evaporated and the mix is dry.

Allow to cool, then purée in food processor or blender until a chunky paste forms. The duxelle should have a very assertive flavor, salty and spicy.

Use 1/2 cup of duxelle per 1 cup of ground tofu, salmon or beef (1 lb. of ground beef or fish = 2 cups). Mix well, form into patties and grill (except for tofu burgers, which are delicate and best cooked in a skillet, like Le Creuset's cast-iron grill pan). Serve on whole grain buns, garnished with watercress and sliced tomatoes.

Preparing Tofu and Fish

Tofu: Press firm tofu for 30 minutes to remove water. Use a tofu press, or wrap the tofu with a few paper towels or cheesecloth, place a cutting board on top and add a heavy weight (such as a cast-iron pan). Place tofu in a bowl and mash with a fork until smooth. A 14-ounce block yields 2 cups.

Salmon: Purée 1 lb. of raw skinless, boneless salmon fillet.