Issues > July/August 2006 (#115) > The Omnivore's Green Grill

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about DAVID WORTMAN

David Wortman is a Seattle writer and coauthor of Engaging People in Sustainability (IUCN-World Conservation Union, 2004).

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Best Backyard Grills

*Wood: Harvesting it can contribute to deforestation, and grilling it releases ash and smoke, which provoke respiratory problems. Consider slow-burning hardwoods like fast-growing mesquite, kiawe and hickory over pine and other fast-burning softwoods.

*Charcoal: Releases more greenhouse gases than wood, can cause even greater deforestation and produces ground-level ozone. The Cowboy Charcoal Co. (www.cowboycharcoal.com) makes low-smoke charcoal out of untreated maple and oak scraps from furniture and flooring plants; also available at Whole Foods (www.wholefoods.com).

*Avoid lighter fuel and self-lighting briquettes, which give off petrochemical volatile organic compounds. Instead, set briquettes on top of a small amount of burning paper or try a chimney starter, a cylinder that uses lit newspaper.

*Gas grilling is one of the most energy-efficient methods and, if you use natural gas, the cleanest-burning fossil fuel, you'll release fewer harmful pollutants. Try the sturdy Vermont Castings VCS 3006 gas grill ($449; www.myownbbq.com, 800-525-1898).

*Electric grills are also much safer, emitting 99 percent less carbon monoxide than charcoal grills. They also reduce carbon dioxide emissions by 91 percent over charcoal and 21 percent over propane.

Food Prep Tips

*Wash hands with hot soapy water before and after handling foods.

*Separate raw meat, poultry and fish; clean hands, utensils and cutting boards with soap and hot water between uses.

*Cook meats to proper temperatures and check with a thermometer. Cook beef to at least 160 degrees internally, whole birds to 180 degrees and breasts to 170 degrees.

*Avoid charring meats to minimize heterocyclic amines and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons. Both have been linked to several cancers.

*Cook fish until it's opaque and flakes easily.

*Refrigerate foods before and within two hours after cooking.

Photo: The Omnivore's Green Grill

As the days grow longer and warmer, grillers across the country will be sizzling and flipping their way through millions of burgers, chicken pieces and fish fillets. Americans eat, on average, 67 pounds of beef and 59.2 pounds of chicken per person, per year, most of it from "concentrated animal feeding operations" (CAFOs). This year, the American Public Health Association has asked that state governments impose moratoriums on new CAFOs due to the pollution and health threats posed by factory farms. Our seafood consumption, which hovered at around 15 pounds per capita until 2000, is expected to rise 26 percent by 2020—provided that fisheries aren't depleted by overfishing.

Fortunately for the green griller, the market for organic meat, poultry and fish grew by 55.4 percent in 2004-5, and local, humane, wild and grassfed options are expanding too. Whatever you like to eat, here are some more sustainable choices you can make when shopping for your next barbecue.

Better Beef

While the hamburger remains an icon of American grilling, a third U.S. case of bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), or "mad cow" disease, was discovered this March. Kansas-based Creekstone Farms has proposed to test every slaughtered cow for BSE, as is done in Japan (the U.S. and Canada test only one percent). When the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) refused permission, due to resistance from larger beef producers, Creekstone filed suit. "Why not let us do what customers are demanding?" asks Kevin Pentz, senior vice president of operations at Creekstone, which uses only vegetarian feed and sells an antiobiotic- and hormone-free line.

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Filed under: Green home, Cookware, Food Safety

Green Guide 115 | July/August 2006 | For Cooks