Heirloom Winter Squash

Slow Food USA is documenting and celebrating the diversity of America's edible plants and animals through its Renewing America's Food Traditions project (RAFT).

Dozens of varieties of squash have been a pivotal part of American cuisine for centuries, but when you go to the grocery store you will most likely find only a few types. RAFT encourages the production—and consumption—of locally produced heirloom varieties.

Heirloom winter squashes offer rich sweet flavor and jewel-like colors, and when paired with rich and indulgent wild mushrooms, you've got an instant celebration of our culinary heritage.

This dish works well when other root vegetables, such as turnips, rutabagas, brussels sprouts or hearty greens, are added in. Let the selection at the farmers' market be your guide. Wild mushrooms can also be found at www.earthy.com. For more info, see www.slowfoodusa.org.

Heirloom Winter Squash and Wild Mushroom Ragout
Serves 4 to 6

1/2 ounce dried porcini or shiitake mushrooms
3/4 cup hot water
3 tablespoons olive oil
1-1/2 pounds winter squash, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/2 cup water
1/2 pound mixed wild mushrooms, cut into bite-sized pieces
2 cups sliced leeks
5 cloves garlic, sliced
3/4 teaspoon salt
freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh marjoram leaves

Soak dried mushrooms in hot water for at least 1/2 hour. Remove mushrooms from water, lightly chop and set soaking water aside.

Heat olive oil in a Dutch oven. Add squash and 1/2 cup water and cook, covered, over medium heat, stirring occasionally for 7 minutes.

Add all the mushrooms, leeks, garlic and mushroom broth. Season with salt and pepper, cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 7 minutes.

Stir in sherry vinegar and marjoram and cook uncovered for 5 minutes. Taste, adjust seasonings and serve over a wild rice pilaf.