Natural Fibers of the Future

Betting on the strength of natural fibers, Daimler-Benz, since 1995, has given their Mercedes G-class cars door panels made of flax-reinforced plastics. As strong as "pure" synthetics, industrial composite plastics, which also contain jute, hemp, ramie, kenaf and flax, use less petroleum, a non-renewable resource. In our homes and clothing, pure natural fabrics, when produced without pesticides and toxic mordants and dyes, make the best environmental and health sense.

Organic Cotton

Conventional cotton farmers in eight cotton-producing states in the U.S. applied more than 1.6 billion pounds of synthetic fertilizers and 53.4 billion pounds of pesticides in 1996. In a healthy trend, more companies are using organically grown cotton.

In 1996 and 1997, following Patagonia's lead, Nike, Levi Strauss and The Gap purchased a total of more than two million pounds of organic cotton to blend with conventional cotton for t-shirts, jeans and other clothes. "We feel we have a leadership role in the industry to increase demand for organic cotton in that we are the largest consumer of cotton," says Levi Strauss spokesperson Clarence Grebey. At Nike, the choice of a blended product was made, "so as not to pass the cost of the product onto the consumer," according to spokesperson Katie McCarthy. Patagonia produced its entire cotton clothing line from one million pounds of organic cotton in 1997. Nathan Boone, coordinator of the Organic Fiber Council, estimates that, by increasing demand, these companies have prevented more than 32,000 pounds of pesticides from being applied to fields.

Hemp

Many of us associate hemp with marijuana. For this reason, U.S. cultivation of hemp was banned in 1937. But industrial hemp contains only trace amounts of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) -- too little to give it psychoactive properties. American farmers, including Presidents Washington and Jefferson, used to grow hemp for rope, sailcloth and even the paper used for drafts of the Declaration of Independence. Today, designers like Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren are using imported hemp fabric in linens and clothing. Actor Woody Harrelson, part-owner of Hempstead, an industrial hemp manufacturer, sports hemp apparel at Hollywood events.

Hemp's popularity is skyrocketing because of the plant's durability and potentially low environmental impact. Hemp requires few, if any, pesticides, and grows in virtually all climates. John Roulac, president of Hemptech, a hemp publishing and consulting company, advocates rotation of hemp with other crops to increase agricultural sustainability. "Hemp can reduce the need for agricultural chemicals, such as herbicides and synthetic fertilizers, in conventional agriculture. It improves the tilth of the soil, prevents the growth of weeds and is pest-tolerant when grown correctly," he says.

Hemp is grown primarily in China and Eastern Europe, and increasingly in England, France, Germany and Canada. With global sales of hemp products, such as clothing, backpacks, cosmetics and even food, reaching $100 million annually, it's no wonder that many American politicians and farm groups are working to lift the ban on hemp cultivation. It could make an excellent replacement crop for tobacco farmers.

Caveat: Until an international organic hemp certification program is developed, consumers should not assume that hemp has been grown without the use of pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. It's best to ask the manufacturer.

Wool

Wool is one of the most time-tested, warm, breathable, naturally flame-retardant fibers available. But conventionally produced wool may contain pesticides. To control parasites such as lice, ticks and mites, sheep are often dipped in pesticide baths. Pesticides have been found in cream made from lanolin, the fat that coats wool fibers. Since there are no organic certification standards for livestock, the Wool Association of Sonoma County, California has developed the "Pure Grow Wool" program with 45 ranchers currently involved. Much of the wool is used in Crown City Mattress and Natural Bedroom products (see Resources, right).

According to Joe Pozzi, wool buyer and one of the original program developers, "Pure Grow" ranchers pledge to follow "Best Management Practices." They rotate grazing sites to ensure that sensitive areas, such as riparian zones, are not overgrazed and destroyed. Medications are given only on an as-needed -- versus calendar -- basis, and the sheep are not dipped in pesticide baths. Additionally, ranchers keep sheep away from areas sprayed with herbicides for a minimum of four days.