What's in Those Cosmetics?

Look on any cosmetic label and you'll find some tongue-tripping ingredients, including synthetic preservatives and colors that may be harmful to our health.

Synthetic Preservatives:
Parabens (butyl, ethyl, methyl and propyl), which can be absorbed through the skin, may mimic or block natural hormones such as estrogen. Imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin and quaternium 15 can release formaldehyde, a lung irritant and suspected carcinogen. Imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium 15 and phenol compounds such as 0-phenylphenol can cause skin irritation.

Alternatives:
Natural preservatives, such as Vitamins A (retinyl), C (ascorbic acid), and E (d-alpha tocopherol), gum benzoin, and grapefruit seed extract and oil, are effective at extending a product's shelf life.

Synthetic Colors:
Many FD&C colors -- those approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for use in foods, drugs and cosmetics -- are made from coal tar, a known carcinogen. Some coal tar colors also contain heavy metals such as arsenic and lead. D&C Red 33, FD&C Yellow 5 and Yellow 6 have been shown to cause cancer when applied to the skin. FDA has not approved any coal tar colors to be used in products applied around the eyes.

Alternatives:
Colors derived from plant, animal, and mineral sources can be safer than FD&C synthetics. Natural mineral pigments include iron oxide and titanium dioxide, while plant pigments can be made from annatto seeds, beta carotene, beet powder and burnt sugar (caramel).

A word of caution: Even natural ingredients can irritate skin or cause allergic reactions. Some people are allergic to carmine, an extract made from the cochineal beetle and used to redden lipstick, nail polish and blush. And many so-called "natural" products actually contain synthetic fragrances, colors and preservatives mixed with a few plant-based ingredients. Always test new cosmetics on a small area of your arm and wait before applying to your face.

Resource:

The Safe Shopper's Bible, by David Steinman and Samuel Epstein, M.D. (Macmillan, 1995, $14.95)