Issues > November/December 2002 (#93) > Apples A-Z

Apples A-Z

Apples are a well-loved and familiar fruit to Americans. In fact, after bananas, they are our most popular fruit. Not only do we enjoy eating them, they play a role in our cultural identity.

Apples are not actually native to the Americas; crab apples are but few of us eat those. European settlers brought apples with them and planted trees in their new homeland. Soon those trees were cross-pollinating with our native crab apple and varieties of apples unique to North America sprang up.

At last count, there were over 2,500 varieties of apples grown in the US alone. (There are over 7,000 varieties throughout the world.). Not all varieties are alike. Some are best when eaten raw, some make better applesauce than others and some are at their best in an apple pie. Some apples make a great addition to a salad, others can be sautéed, baked whole, pureed into sauce, or used as the components of pies, tarts and fritters. How do you tell the difference? It all comes down to personal preference but here are a few guidelines.

Eating Apples

When choosing an apple to eat by itself, look for varieties that are firm and crisp with a good amount of juice. Baldwin, Cortland, Fuji, Gala, Golden Delicious, Jonagold, Mutsu, Red Delicious, Rome and Winesap are all great for enjoying as a snack.

Apples in Salads

Apples are a wonderful addition to both fruit salads and green salads. Look for Cortland, Empire, Gala, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Ida Red and Mutsu to add to salads. Cortland and Golden Delicious apples are especially good choices because they don't discolor as fast as other varieties. Adding an acidic ingredient like lemon juice or vinegar will help all varieties keep their flesh white longer.

Apples for Sauce

Applesauce is incredibly easy to make at home. When picking an apple for applesauce, choose a variety that releases a lot of juice and softens completely. Rome and McIntosh are good choices. Baldwin, Cortland, Fuji, Northern Spy, York, and New England Russet also work well. Make sure that you don't cook your applesauce in cast iron or copper pots, those metals can cause the pigments in the apples to turn an unappealing dark grey. Some apples, like the red delicious, never fully break down and therefore do not make good applesauce.

Baking with Apples

There are many different ways to bake with apples. In the US we commonly bake a double-crusted pie. Apple Pie is very popular in Britain as well but they bake theirs without the bottom crust. The French make a dessert similar to upside down cake called apple tarte Tatin. The apples are caramelized and then baked with a crust on top of them. The tarte is then inverted prior to being served.

Apples for pie have the qualities of both eating and sauce apples. They should retain their shape when cooked but also be able to become nice and tender. Most bakers favor apples with a more tart flavor, which helps balance out the flavors of the pie. If you choose a sweeter apple, make sure to reduce the amount of sugar in the recipe. Cortland, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Greening, Mutsu, Pippin, Rome and Winesap all make nice pies.

Nutrition

Apples are very nutritious. They are high in soluble fiber, which helps to reduce our cholesterol levels. They contain flavinoids, which reduce the risk of cancer, and they are a good source of vitamins A and C as well as folic acid.

Purchasing and Storage

Choose apples that are firm and unblemished. It is best to store apples in a cool room, or the refrigerator. Try to store the apples in a single layer and don't store overly ripe apples or those with broken skin near other apples. When an apple is damaged, it emits ethylene gas, which will cause the other apples to ripen too fast.

Apple Sauce

Yields 1 quart

Ingredients

4 lbs apples

sugar (optional)

lemon juice (optional)

1 cinnamon stick

Method

Peel and core the apples and dice them. Place the apples in a heavy bottomed pot with 2 Tbsp water and the cinnamon stick and cover. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally until the apples are soft and falling apart. Do not allow the apples to burn, if the mixture becomes dry, add a small amount of water. When the apples are soft, taste and add sugar and lemon juice if desired. The sauce can be cooked until completely broken down, or can be served chunky. When the sauce has reached the desired consistency, remove it to a bowl and allow it to cool.

Apple Fritters

Yields approx 24 fritters

Apple Filling

4 red apples

2 Tbsp sugar

2 tsp cinnamon

juice of one half lemon

Peel and core the apples and slice each into 8 pieces. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with lemon juice, sugar and cinnamon and set aside.

Batter

1 cup all purpose flour

pinch salt

half tsp baking powder

1 Tbsp sugar

1 cup milk

2 eggs, separated

vegetable oil for frying

Method

Combine all the dry ingredients (except the salt) in a large mixing bowl and set aside. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, salt and milk and set aside. Whisk the egg whites to soft peaks. Pour the milk mixture into the dry ingredients and stir until thoroughly combined. Gently fold in one third of the whipped egg whites into the batter, repeat until all the whites have been added.

Fill a sauté pan or pot with vegetable oil so that the oil is 3" deep. Strain the apples of any juice that has accumulated. Heat the oil to 375F. Dip each apple slice into the batter and using a slotted spoon, gently place the fritter into the hot oil, fry until golden brown, remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve while warm.

The following recipes are from a wonderful new book The Anatomy of a Dish by Diane Forley with Catherine Young, reviewed and purchasable at The Green Guide's Bookstore. Released November 2002 by Artisan Publishers with photographs by Victor Schrager. The Anatomy of a Dish is an exploration of fruits and vegetables and their plant families. It has recipes, menu ideas and huge amount of botanical information.

Granny Smith Apples have just come into season and Diane has provided three recipes that highlight their distinctive flavor.

Apple and Leek Hash

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 leeks, halved lengthwise and sliced

4 shallots, peeled and sliced

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced

3 tablespoons butter

one quarter tablespoons apple cider vinegar

one quarter tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1 cup apple cider

2 teaspoons mustard seeds

Method

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks, shallots, salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables soften and begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the apple and butter and cook until the apple begins to color, then add the cider and rice wine vinegars. Allow the vinegars to bubble away then add the apple cider and mustard seeds. Salt and pepper the mixture then reduce the heat and gently simmer until the apples are tender, about 10 minutes. Serve warm.

Apple Upside-down Cake

Makes one 10-inch cake

For the Apples:

5 Granny Smith apples

half cup sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 ounces butter

For the Cake:

half cup sliced almonds

three quarter cup sugar

one and one half cups all purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

4 ounces butter, softened

2 eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 cup crème fraîche

Method

Making the caramel. Combine the sugar, lemon juice and one quarter cup of water in a saucepan and stir until completely dissolved. Melt the sugar over medium heat. Allow the sugar to simmer and darken (caramelize), about 15 minutes. Add the butter, swirl to melt then transfer the mixture to a medium skillet.

Caramelizing the apples. Peel and core the apples. Cut each into 8 pieces and add them to the caramel. Add another one quarter cup of water and bring the caramel back to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cook the apples until they are very tender, about 20 minutes.

Arrange the apples in a 10-inch spring form pan so they completely cover the bottom. Pour the caramel over the apples.

Making the cake. Preheat the oven to 350. Pulse the almonds in a food processor together with one quarter cup of sugar and continue pulsing until the mixture is finely ground. Combine the ground almonds with the flour, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. In a mixer, cream the butter with the remaining half cup of sugar. Mix in the eggs, one at a time, and then add the vanilla extract. With the mixer on low, add first one third of the flour mixture to the creamed butter then one-third of the crème fraîche. Repeat until all the ingredients have been combined. Spoon the batter over the apples then bake until the cake is springy and passes the toothpick test, about 40 minutes. Remove the cake from the oven and invert (apple side up) onto a cake rack to cool. Cut in wedges and serve.

Bibb lettuce and Endive Salad with Blue Cheese and Green Apple Vinaigrette

Serves 6

For the vinaigrette:

2 tablespoons sugar

1 Granny Smith apple, cored

half cup parsley leaves

one quarter cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar

1 cup grapeseed oil

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad:

2 heads bibb lettuce, cleaned

3 heads endive, leaves separated and sliced

half Granny Smith apple, peeled cut in julienne and tossed with a little lemon juice

6 ounces Stilton or other blue cheese, rind removed and crumbled

one quarter cup pomegranate seeds (optional)

Making the vinaigrette. Heat the sugar with 2 tablespoons water in a very small pan just until the sugar dissolves. Allow the sugar syrup to cool.

Combine the cored apple, parsley leaves, vinegar and sugar syrup in a blender or food processor. Add an ice cube and process until smooth. With the machine running, add the oil. Season with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to use. (This vinaigrette will keep 2-3 days).

Making the salad. Combine the lettuce, endive, apple and cheese and mix well. Dress with about the half the vinaigrette and toss the salad, then add just enough more so the salad is coated but not soggy. Serve garnished with pomegranate seeds and additional fresh parsley leaves if desired.