Issues > January/February 2003 (#94) > The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

by Diane di Costanzo and Pamela Lundquist

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Photo: The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

Shopping Guide

Print this guide, or the parts of it you find most useful, and use it to select which toiletries to avoid/discard, and healthier ones to replace them with.

What's Good

Less-Toxic Personal-Care Products

(Caution: Although less toxic, these and other personal-care products can be harmful if ingested and should be kept out of the reach of children.)

Check out starred (*) "bad" ingredients BAD & UGLY, below.

Antiperspirants & Deodorants

  • Tom's of Maine Natural Anti-perspirant & Deodorant. Contains buffered aluminum sulfate, naturally derived and less likely to irritate than aluminum chlorohydrate*. Does contain propylene glycol*, which carries a low risk of irritancy. No Tom's of Maine product contains phthalates, says spokesperson Kathleen Taggersell (www.tomsofmaine.com, 800/FOR-TOMS).

  • Crystal Stick Body Deodorant. Simply uses only natural mineral salts and the naturally derived ammonium alum. (www.crystaldeodorantprotection.com, 888/262-3884, or see the many crystal deodorants listed in The Green Guide's Deodorant Product Report).

  • Burt's Bees Herbal Deodorant. 99% natural; fragrance ingredients include sage and lemon oils (www.burtsbees.com, 800/849-7112).

  • Kiss My Face Active Enzyme Stick Lavender. Scented with lavender essential oil (www.kissmyface.com, 800/262-5477). Does contain propylene glycol*.

 

Perfumes & Fragrances

EWG's 2002 report "Not Too Pretty" found that 100% of the fragrances tested contained phthalates, even among such "natural" sounding product lines as Healing Garden. Only pure botanical fragrances can be assumed to be phthalate-free, but those with sensitive skin should still patch-test.

 

Powder

  • Cornstarch is a nontoxic alternative to talc, but take caution: These and other fine particles/powders can, if inhaled, irritate airways and provoke asthmatic reactions.

  • Burt's Bees Wings of Love Facial Powder, talc-free, uses mica, calcium carbonate (chalk), kaolin (clay) and zinc oxide (www.burtsbees.com, 800/849-7112).

  • California Baby Calming Non-Talc Powder (www.california baby.com, 877/576-2825).

 

Moisturizers

The products below are free of the most problematic synthetic chemicals.

 

Haircare Products

Safer Shampoos & Conditioners

  • Avalon Organic Botanicals Therapeutic Shampoo contains the preservatives methyl-* and propylparaben*, but they pose less risk in rinse-off products (www.avalonnaturalproducts.com, 800/277-5120).

  • Aubrey Organics Soothing Blue Camomile Shampoo (www.aubrey-organics.com, 800/282-7394); their hair product line contains no SLS/SLES surfactants*.

  • Dr. Hauschka Herbal Hair Conditioner (www.drhauschka.com, 800-247-9907).

  • J. R. Liggett's Old-Fashioned Bar Shampoo -- no bottle! (www.jrliggett.com, 603/675-2055).

Hair Groomers: Sprays, gels and other "fixitives"

Hair Dyes

The safest hair-coloring products last the least amount of time:

"Semi-permanent" products, which coat the hair and wash out after several shampoos, contain no ammonia*, peroxide* or other harsh chemicals. Gray strands will come out looking like highlights, but these products can't cover an entire head of gray. They include: Aveda color-enhancing shampoos and conditioners (www.aveda.com, 800-328-0849) and Logona Kosmetik Pure Vegetable Hair Color (www.smallflower.com or from the Merz Apothecary, 800-252-0275).

"Demi-permanent" tints typically last twice as long and can cover more gray -- but they do contain peroxide. A good choice: Clairol Natural Instincts Demi Permanent Haircolor contains no ammonia and is low in peroxide (at stores nationwide; www.clairol.,com, 800-223-5800).

Step up to permanent hair dyes and highlights and you've entered a world of harsh chemicals, including cancer-linked "coal tar" dyes. Safest bet: Avoid coal-tar ingredients and keep formulations off the scalp. As Deirdre Imus says, "Simply work with your colorist to keep the process as safe as possible."

 

Good Makeup

  • FlowerColor Eyeshadow by Ecco Bella (www.eccobella.com, 877-696-2200) contains no synthetic preservatives.

  • Paul Penders (www.paulpenders.com, 888-278-0889) makes a mascara with no tar, alcohol or petroleum-based colors or chemical drying agents.

  • Eyeliner from Burt's Bees (www.burtsbees.com, 800-849-7112) contains only natural ingredients and also works as an eyebrow pencil.

  • Aubrey Organics (www.aubrey-organics.com, 800-282-7394) makes Natural Lips, a 100% vegan product that can double as a blush.

  • Water-based nail polish that peels off (no remover necessary) is available from Color 'N Peel (colornpeel.com, 888-420-2628).

The following companies also make a full range of cleaner color cosmetics:

 

Healthier Ingredients Roundup

Look for these "goodies" in a variety of personal-care products: Annatto, beeswax, candelilla wax, carmine, carrageenan, cornstarch, hematite, iron oxides, jojoba oil, kaolin, pycnogenol (from pine trees), rice-bran oil, shea butter, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, titanium dioxide, vitamins A,C,E.

 

BAD & UGLY

Here are the ingredients to be most wary of on labels, and why.

Coal-tar colors

So-called coal-tar chemicals are found in many "FD&C" or "D&C" colors used in makeup and hair dye.

Health Problem: Allergens and irritants, possible carcinogens

Safer Alternatives: Annatto, beta carotene, carmine, hematite, henna, iron oxides, titanium dioxide (nontoxic, but can cause lung irritation if inhaled as powder)

 

Lead

A brain- and nervous-system toxin as well as a known carcinogen and hormone disruptor, lead accumulates in the bones. It is found in lead acetate in hair dyes and makeup.

 

Phthalates

Used widely in fragrances, deodorants, nail polishes, hair products and lotions, the oily texture of phthalates acts like a moisturizer and helps lotions penetrate skin.

Health Problems: Various members of this family of chemical plasticizers have been found to produce cancer of the liver and birth defects in lab animals.

Dibutylphthalate (DBP) is of particular concern because documented exposures are high and its health effects are potentially very serious. In nail polish and mascara, DBP helps thin films stay flexible, reducing brittleness and cracking. Animal studies show that DBP causes birth defects and harm to male reproductive organs. Timing of exposure was critical: Harm was done to animals exposed in the womb or shortly after birth.

A 2002 Environmental Working Group (EWG) report found DBP in 37 nail products from 22 different companies. Their 2002 report, "Not Too Pretty" (produced with Health Care Without Harm and Coming Clean), found phthalates in 52 of 72 different personal-care products.

Other commonly used phthalates include dimethylphthalate (DMP) and diethylphthalate (DEP).

Alternatives: Phthalates often "hide" behind the term "fragrance;" choose products labeled "fragrance-free" or that are scented exclusively with pure botanical or essential oils. Phthalates are also present in, and can evaporate from, soft vinyl (PVC) toys, flooring and other products, which should be avoided. For more information, search for "phthalates" at www.thegreenguide.com.

 

Preservatives

Bronopol, often listed as 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, can contribute to the formation of cancer-causing nitrosamines, according to the FDA. It can also break down to produce formaldehyde (see below).

Formaldehyde, found in eye shadows, mascaras and other cosmetics, is "reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen," according to the National Toxicology Program's "Ninth Report on Carcinogens" (January 2001)**. The EPA classifies it as a probable human carcinogen.

In its liquid state, formaldehyde, present in the ingredients DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea imidazolidinyl urea and quaternium-15, can be absorbed through the skin and nails. As a volatile organic compound, or VOC, formaldehyde evaporates when the product is wet; levels drop sharply once it's dry. Consumer concern has led many manufacturers to remove it from their nail polishes.

Health Problems: Breathing formaldehyde fumes has been associated with many types of cancers, including those of the nose and throat. Levels of formaldehyde in air as low as 0.1 ppm (parts per million) can cause burning sensations in the eyes, nose and throat; nausea, coughing and wheezing.

Imidazolidinyl urea can trigger contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals.

Mercury: a tiny amount of this potent nervous-system toxin, which accumulates in the body, is allowed as a preservative in eye-area cosmetics.

The parabens: Methyl-, propyl-, ethyl- and butylparaben are the most common preservatives used in cosmetics.

Health Problems: Common allergens. Some recent research shows that parabens can mimic estrogen in rodents, making them potential hormone disruptors.

Quaternary ammonium compounds can irritate the skin and eyes. Quaternium-15 causes more dermatitis complaints than any other preservative, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.

Healthier Preservatives: Vitamins A (retinoic acid), C (ascorbic acid), E (tocopherol), citric acid, pycnogenol.

 

Surfactants -- Sudsing/Foaming Agents

Suds-making detergents, known as surfactants, in shampoos also promote absorption of the product by the skin.

Diethanolamine (DEA), widely used in shampoos, is a suspected carcinogen, and its compounds and derivatives include triethanolamine (TEA), which can be contaminated with nitrosamines -- compounds shown to cause cancer in laboratory animals. Contamination is more likely if the product also contains Bronopol (see above).

Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) are both irritants, says the Cosmetics Ingredient Review (CIR), a panel of cosmetics-industry experts established to safety-test ingredients (cir-safety.org). But the CIR reported that SLS also causes "severe epidermal changes" to mouse skin, a finding that "indicates a need for tumor-enhancing activity assays." This year, after review of over 250 existing SLS studies, the CIR concluded that SLS is not cancer-causing. However, Samuel Epstein, M.D., says he is not convinced and recommends avoiding SLS.

 

Other Ingredients to Avoid

Aluminum chlorohydrate, a wetness retardant used in antiperspirants, can cause allergic reactions.

Ammonia, used in hair dyes and bleaches, can irritate the eyes and skin and can be toxic when inhaled.

Mineral oil, found in many moisturizers, comes from petroleum, a nonrenewable resource.

Peroxide, used in hair-coloring products, can irritate the skin of hands and scalp and damage hair and eyes.

Phenylenediamine (PPD), found in many hair dyes, is linked with skin irritations, respiratory disorders and cancers, and is banned in Europe.

Polyethylene and polyethylene glycol (PEG ingredients), found in hair straighteners, antiperspirants and baby-care products, are safe in themselves but can be contaminated with 1,4- dioxane, which produced liver cancer in rodents in National Cancer Institute (NCI) studies.

Polysorbate compounds 60 and 80 are emulsifiers, used in lotions and creams, that can also become contaminated with the carcinogen 1,4-dioxane.

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), widely used in hair-care products, especially sprays, has been found to stay in the body for months. In rats it contributed to tumor development.

Propylene glycol, a humectant, or moisture-attracting ingredient, found in mascara, lotions, creams and other cosmetics, can irritate skin in sensitive individuals.

Talc, a mineral found in many face and body powders, has a structure similar to that of asbestos, which has been linked to lung and ovarian cancers. Healthier alternative: cornstarch (but, like any powder, can cause breathing problems)

Toluene, a solvent, is found in some nail polishes. It is a nervous-system toxin.

Triclosan, an antibacterial agent found in deodorants and other products, is overused and is linked to antibiotic-resistant disease, says the Alliance for the Prudent Use of Antibiotics (www.apua.org).

** The substance is described the same way in the Tenth Report on Carcinogens, released December 2002.

Filed under: Cosmetics, Personal care products, Wellness Products, Environmental health

Green Guide 94 | January/February 2003 | For Yourself