Risotto: A Dish for All Seasons

Risotto is a delicious and versatile northern Italian rice dish. The word risotto refers to the method used to cook the rice. It is first sautéed in butter and then stock is added in stages, and the rice is stirred constantly while it cooks, so that the rice becomes very creamy. Risotto is used in a similar fashion to pasta, in that the base of the dish is the starch and then a variety of ingredients

Since risotto works so well with a variety of garnishes, it can be eaten throughout the seasons. Spring vegetables, like fresh peas, leeks, dandelion and asparagus add a touch of green to a creamy white risotto. During the summer risotto can be paired with a ragout of tomatoes, onions and zucchini. In the fall, it is common to serve risotto garnished with sautéed mushrooms. The winter months bring heartier versions that rely on slow cooked meats and fish as the accompaniment.

Risotto Rice

The first step in making risotto is understanding which rice to use. While any type of rice can be cooked using the risotto method, only certain types of rice will yield the creamy result that is the hallmark of a true risotto.

The Italian word for rice is riso and rice grown in Italy is categorized into four distinct types based on the length of the grain. The two types of Italian rice that are used for risotto are fino riso (fine rice), which has a long grain and super fino riso, which has an extra long grain.

The most common varieties of super fino rice are arborio, carnaroli, vialone nano and roma. When purchasing rice to make risotto, look for one of these varieties and make sure that it is categorized as super fino.

The Risotto method

The risotto method of cooking rice is quite different than the usual stove top method. Below is a quick overview of the process.

Stock or water is heated and held warm in a pot.
It is very important that the stock is hot when added to the rice. Cold stock will not create the creamy texture that is desired in risotto.

Melt the butter in a second pot.
Choose a pot with a heavy bottom to avoid burning the rice.

Add the onion or shallot to the butter and sauté it until translucent.
Don't allow your aromatics to caramelize at all. A brown color will not look nice against the pearly white risotto. Don't forget to season the onions (or shallots) with salt and pepper.

Add the rice to the onions.
Using a wooden spoon stir continuously and cook for 1 to 2 minutes until the grains are well coated and become a bit opaque.

Add the wine (if called for in the recipe) to the rice.
Continue stirring the rice and allow the wine to evaporate completely before moving on to the next step.

Add the stock to the rice in stages.
Using a ladle, add 1 ladle of hot stock into the rice and stir constantly until all the stock has been absorbed.
The temperature should be high enough that the stock sizzles a bit when you add it but not so high that the rice begins to brown.
Add the second ladle of hot stock and continue stirring until all the stock has been absorbed.
The rest of the stock is added a ladle at a time. Stir and cook until completely absorbed before adding more stock. (You do not have to stir constantly but should stir the pot at least every minute and more if you can.)
After cooking for approximately 15 minutes, you will need to taste frequently so that you know when the risotto is ready.
Remember that you might not use all of the stock - as with all cooking - use your judgment and decide when you feel that the rice is tender enough.

Tips for Success

Don't Rinse the Rice
The creamy gravy that is created while the rice cooks is thickened starch, rinsing the rice rinses off some of this starch and your risotto will not be as creamy.

Don't Let a Finished Risotto Hang Around Before Being Served
Most grains benefit from sitting in the pot for 10 minutes when they are finished cooking. We call this steaming the rice and it allows the grains to absorb the last of the steam in the pot and to become fluffy. Risotto on the other hand is traditionally eaten al dente (with a slight crunch in the middle) and so cannot be allowed to sit and continue cooking once it has reached the proper stage.

Watch Out for Salty Stock
If you are using a commercially prepared chicken or beef stock, it can contain a LOT of salt. Keeping the pot of stock hot means that it will reduce a bit and therefore the saltiness can become too concentrated. I buy low sodium stock or mix in 1/4 part water. Taste the Risotto Frequently The only way to tell when your risotto is finished cooking is by tasting it. Tasting it also allows you to monitor the flavor and gives you time to adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Pippa Calland, the Executive Chef at Le Madri in New York City has provided the following risotto recipes.

Le Madri Restaurant
168 W. 18th Street
NY, NY 10011
212-727-8022
lemadri.citysearch.com

Risotto con Parmigiano e Burro
(serves 6-8)

The beauty of risotto is that it is amendable, which is to say that you can put whatever you may want or have on hand into it without needing a license or permission from anyone. This particular risotto has its point of origin in a particular pizza that I like to eat. I have given you a basic risotto recipe. Feel free to modify it with any desired ingredients. Just remember when you make a risotto utilizing seafood, most Italians frown on using cheese, although a knot of butter at the finish is entirely acceptable. Enjoy your experimentations! Executive Chef, Pippa S. Calland

Ingredients
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 medium yellow onions diced
8 cups chicken stock
2 cups of carnaroli rice
1 cup dry white wine
2 ounces freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
4-1/2 tablespoons of unsalted butter

Method
Put chicken stock on stove and allow to boil. Skim and turn down heat to keep hot.

Put a heavy gauge non-reactive pot (preferably rondeau) on the stove on a medium flame. When warm add olive oil. Add chopped onions and sweat until translucent. There should be enough oil to cover onions. Add the rice and stir gently with wooden spoon to insure rice is evenly coated with the fat (thus toasting the rice). Toast the rice, stirring for approximately five minutes or until the outer starch layer on the rice becomes translucent, revealing just the opaque center of the rice. At this point, add white wine, shaking the rondeau and scraping the bottom of the pan with the wooden spoon to insure the rice does not stick.

Allow the wine to completely evaporate, shaking and scraping the pan, rather than stirring. When wine has evaporated, add hot chicken stock to just cover the rice. On a medium flame, simmer the rice until the stock has been completely absorbed, resisting the urge to stir, instead shaking and scraping the pan. When the stock has been absorbed, add another measure of stock to just cover the rice and allow it to cook, repeating as needed.

The process of cooking the rice should take about twenty minutes and the rice should be completely cooked, remaining al dente and individuated into separate grains. When the process is completed you are ready to finish (or mount) the risotto.

Raise the heat. Stir vigorously to combine and shake the rondeau. Continue to stir until rice moves together as one - creamy and bound. Check seasonings, adding salt and pepper as needed and/or chicken stock if the rice is too dry. Remove from heat, and serve immediately on hot plates.

Risotto with Shaved Black Winter Truffles
(serves 6-8)

Ingredients
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 medium yellow onions diced
8 cups chicken stock
4-1/2 Tablespoons of unsalted butter, cubed
2 cups of carnaroli rice
1 cup dry white wine
3 oz freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
4 oz shaved fresh black winter truffles

Method
Put chicken stock on stove and allow to boil. Skim and turn down heat to keep hot.

Put a heavy gauge non-reactive pot (preferably rondeau) on the stove on a medium flame. When warm add olive oil. Add chopped onions and sweat until translucent. There should be enough oil to cover onions. Add the rice and stir gently with wooden spoon to insure rice is evenly coated with the fat (thus toasting the rice). Toast the rice, stirring for approximately five minutes or until the outer starch layer on the rice becomes translucent, revealing just the opaque center of the rice. At this point, add white wine, shaking the rondeau and scraping the bottom of the pan with the wooden spoon to insure the rice does not stick.

Allow the wine to completely evaporate, shaking and scraping the pan, rather than stirring. When wine has evaporated, add hot chicken stock to just cover the rice. On a medium flame, simmer the rice until the stock has been completely absorbed, resisting the urge to stir, instead shaking and scraping the pan. When the stock has been absorbed, add another measure of stock to just cover the rice and allow to cook, repeating as needed.

The process of cooking the rice should take about twenty minutes and the rice should be completely cooked, remaining al dente and individuated into separate grains. When the process is completed you are ready to finish (or mount) the risotto.

Remove the rondeau from the stove and place on the counter. The rice should be fairly moist with a visible amount of chicken stock covering the rice. If it is not, add a scant amount of warm chicken stock. Add half of the cubed butter and grated Parmigiano and stir vigorously with wooden spoon to combine. Add remaining butter, cheese, and chicken stock as needed to create a rice mixture that is creamy and homogenous in texture. The risotto should be fairly loose in texture. Check seasonings and just before serving add desired quantity of shaved truffles to the risotto. Stir well to combine. Portion risotto onto warmed plates and serve immediately.

Risotto with Dandelions, Fava Beans and Apple-Wood Smoked Bacon
(serves 6-8)

Ingredients
1/2 pound fresh fava bean (shelled)
1 bunch dandelion (washed, stemmed and chiffonaded)
5 slices of coarsely sliced apple-wood smoked bacon (cut into lardons)
2 medium yellow onions diced
8 cups chicken stock
4-1/2 tablespoons of unsalted butter
2 cups of carnaroli rice
1 cup dry white wine
4 oz of gorgonzola dolce (crumbled)

Method
Bring salted water to a boil. Add fava beans and cook for five minutes. Drain and shock in salted ice water. Remove the skins. Set aside. Put chicken stock on stove and allow to boil. Skim and turn down heat to keep hot. Place a heavy gauge pan on the stove and heat. Add a scant quantity of extra virgin olive oil and allow to warm. Add bacon lardons and render until crisp. Strain the fat through cheese cloth and reserve bacon and fat.

Put a heavy gauge non-reactive pot (preferably rondeau) on the stove on a medium flame. When warm add rendered bacon grease. Add chopped onions and sweat until translucent. Check the amount of fat in the rondeau. There should be enough to cover onions. If not, supplement with extra virgin olive oil and allow to warm. Add the rice and stir gently with wooden spoon to insure rice is evenly coated with the fat (thus toasting the rice). Toast the rice, stirring for approximately five minutes or until the outer starch layer on the rice becomes translucent, revealing just the opaque center of the rice. At this point, add white wine, shaking the rondeau and scraping the bottom of the pan with the wooden spoon to insure the rice does not stick.

Allow the wine to completely evaporate, shaking and scraping the pan, rather than stirring. When wine has evaporated, add hot chicken stock to just cover the rice. On a medium flame, simmer the rice until the stock has been completely absorbed, resisting the urge to stir, instead shaking and scraping the pan. When the stock has been absorbed, add another measure of stock to just cover the rice and allow to cook, repeating as needed.

The process of cooking the rice should take about twenty minutes and the rice should be completely cooked, remaining al dente and individuated into separate grains. When the process is completed you are ready to finish (or mount) the risotto.

Add the fava beans and chiffonaded dandelion greens to the rice and allow to heat through. The rice should have a small amount of liquid apparent between the grains. Remove rondeau from heat and add butter and cheese. Stir rice vigorously with wooden spoon to activate the starch, creating a homogenous mixture. Add salt, pepper and bacon lardons and check seasonings. Continue to stir until rice moves together as one - creamy and bound. Portion rice onto warm plates and garnish with high quality mild extra virgin olive oil and serve immediately.

Risotto with Fresh Favas, Pancetta, Pecorino and Lemon Zest
(serves 6-8)

Ingredients
1/2 pound shelled fresh fava beans
4 oz thickly sliced pancetta, diced into cubes
2 medium yellow onions cut into small dice
2 cups Vialone nano rice
1 cup dry white wine
8 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons of unsalted butter
4 oz finely grated Pecorino Romano
zest of two lemons, finely chopped
chiffonade of mint and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Method
Bring salted water to a boil. Add fava beans and cook for five minutes. Drain and shock in salted ice water. Remove the skins. Set aside. Put chicken stock on stove and allow to boil. Skim and turn down heat to keep hot. Place a heavy gauge pan on the stove and heat. Add a scant quantity of extra virgin olive oil and allow to warm. Add diced pancetta and cook until pancetta becomes golden, about five minutes. Strain the fat through cheesecloth and reserve pancetta and fat.

Put a heavy gauge non-reactive pot (preferably rondeau) on the stove on a medium flame. When warm add rendered pancetta fat. Add chopped onions and sweat until translucent. Check the amount of fat in the rondeau. There should be enough to cover onions. If not, supplement with extra virgin olive oil and allow to warm. Add the rice and stir gently with wooden spoon to insure rice is evenly coated with the fat (thus toasting the rice). Toast the rice, stirring for approximately five minutes or until the outer starch layer on the rice becomes translucent, revealing just the opaque center of the rice. At this point, add white wine, shaking the rondeau and scraping the bottom of the pan with the wooden spoon to insure the rice does not stick.

Allow the wine to completely evaporate, shaking and scraping the pan, rather than stirring. When wine has evaporated, add hot chicken stock to just cover the rice. On a medium flame, simmer the rice until the stock has been completely absorbed, resisting the urge to stir, instead shaking and scraping the pan. When the stock has been absorbed, add another measure of stock to just cover the rice and allow to cook, repeating as needed.

The process of cooking the rice should take about twenty minutes and the rice should be completely cooked, remaining al dente and individuated into separate grains. When the process is completed you are ready to finish (or mount) the risotto.

Add the fava beans to the rice and heat through. The rice should have a small amount of liquid apparent between the grains. Remove rondeau from heat and add butter and cheese. Stir rice vigorously with wooden spoon to activate the starch, creating a homogenous mixture. Add pancetta, chopped lemon zest, freshly ground black pepper and mint chiffonade and stir to combine. Check seasonings. Continue to stir until rice moves together as one - creamy and bound. Portion rice onto warm plates and garnish with estate produced extra virgin olive oil and serve immediately.