Winter Squash: A Cold-Weather Affair

Right now I am in the middle of a love affair. I am completely entranced by winter squash. When the cold weather sets in, I have to remind myself to buy it and cook it and when I do, I remember how much I love it.

Winter squash is a great ingredient for a few reasons. First off, it is delicious. I steamed a butternut squash the other day and my husband kept insisting that I must have put sugar on it. In fact, I hadn't done anything but steam it in water and sprinkle it with a bit of salt. Most varieties of squash are sweet and delicious without any culinary help. Secondly, it is one of those ingredients that lends itself to a whole host of preparations. It can be eaten by itself as a mash or used to make soup. It is delicious sautéed with garlic and greens. It makes really nice ravioli filling and soufflés. The winter squashes are also used to make pumpkin pie and flan as well as cookies and quick breads. And finally, squash is packed with Vitamin A and contains many carotenoid pigments that protect against cancer, while also providing Vitamin C, potassium and fiber.

Winter Squash are native to Central and South America and are part of the Cucurbita family of plants (which also includes cucumbers and watermelon). After 9,000 years of of cultivation, we have a large number of different varieties from which to choose. They range in size from one to fifty pounds. They come in a variety of shapes and their coloring runs the gamut. Their skin can be yellow, orange, green or bluish grey - some are striped and some are solid. Their flesh ranges in color from yellow to deep orange, a few are intensely sweet and others have a very mild flavor. With such an abundance of choices, knowing which squash to buy can be confusing.

The most common winter squashes that you will find at the grocery store are Acorn, Butternut and Delicata. Acorn squash can be green or orange, has a very mild flavor and pale yellow flesh. Its ridged skin makes it somewhat difficult to peel and so it is often cooked without being peeled. Butternut squash is shaped like an elongated pear and has pale beige skin, which is easy to peel. It has a stronger, very pleasant flavor and works well in many dishes. The Delicata squashes can be oblong, or round, their skin is yellow or orange and often striped with green. Delicata squash are more tender and watery than other squashes and they cook very quickly.

At the farmer's market you will find a whole host of other winter squashes. A few of the more common varieties are Hubbard, Buttercup and Kabocha which have deep orange flesh, and are dense and very sweet. Spaghetti squash is yellow and the size of a small football. It is most often baked and then separated from its skin with a fork. When cooked, it has a very stringy texture, which looks somewhat like spaghetti (hence its name). Some squashes are commonly referred to as pumpkins but they are simply certain types of squashes. Generally pumpkins are orange, have thin skin which is easy to peel and are very mild tasting. There are many other varieties that I have not mentioned. Once you get comfortable working with squash, you can explore all the different shapes, sizes and colors that the market will have to offer.

If you have never cooked with squash before, just find a recipe that seems appealing and use whatever type of squash that is available to you. As you learn more about the different squashes, you will come to prefer certain squashes for certain dishes and once you have cooked with them, remembering their individual characteristics won't be difficult.

All squash contain edible seeds, which are commonly removed before cooking. To remove the seeds, just cut the squash in half lengthwise and using a spoon scoop out the seeds. Make sure to scoop out all of the fibers that are around the seeds, these fibers don't soften up when the squash is cooked and they will remain stringy. If you want to eat the seeds, simply pull off all the loose fibers, pat them dry with paper towels and place them on a cookie sheet. Allow them to dry overnight. The next day, drizzle them with oil, season with salt and bake at 350 F until they are golden.

Depending on how you will be cooking the squash, you may need to peel it. I find that peeling squash it is easier once it has been cut in half and the seeds have been removed.

(Squashes, like Acorn, that have deeply ridged flesh can be very difficult to peel. I generally reserve these varieties for baking in their skin.) Most squash can be peeled with a vegetable peeler but some require the use of a knife. If you are using a knife to peel squash, be careful, it can be dangerous. Once the squash is peeled, you can dice or slice it depending on how you will be cooking it.

If you haven't worked with squash before, you will find that the easiest way to serve squash is as a mash. There are two methods for making squash mash, baking and steaming. To bake squash, cut the squash in half and remove its seeds. There is no need to peel it because once it is cooked you simply scoop out the flesh and throw the peel away. Place the squash, cut side up, on a cookie sheet. Drizzle with a bit of olive oil, season with salt, pepper and cinnamon and then bake in a 350 F oven until they are fork tender. Remove them from the oven and allow them to cool a bit, but not fully. With a spoon, scoop out the flesh, check the seasoning and serve.

To steam squash, peel and de-seed as described above. Dice the squash into one-inch pieces and place in a heavy bottomed pot with about three-quarters of an inch of water. Season with salt and bring the water to a boil. Cover the pot and cook until the squash is very tender. While it is cooking, make sure to check the pot frequently and add more water if necessary. The squash will burn if all the water is allowed to evaporate. When the squash is tender it can be served as is or seasoned with milk and butter like mashed potatoes or my personal favorite, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and toasted hazelnuts.

The following recipes were adapted from Pumpkin, Butternut & Squash ($6.95) written by Elsa Petersen-Schepelern and published by Ryland Peters & Small. For more information about the book, check out www.rylandpeters.com.

Elsa Petersen-Schepelern is a Danish-Australian food writer. She began her working life as a publicist for movie stars, best-selling novelists, sportsmen and comedians as well as top chefs before taking up the pen and the pans on her own account. Based in London, Elsa now spends much of her time sampling food and wine around the world. She draws on an eclectic mix of cuisines, as well as fresh seasonal ingredients, as the inspiration for her delicious recipes.

She is the author of numerous books on Food & Drink including the following all published by Ryland Peters & Small: Smoothies & Other Blended Drinks; Soup; Coolers and Summer Cocktails; Wok; Steaming; Grill Pan Cooking; Meal in a Bowl amd Salsas, Dips and Relishes.

Roasted Pumpkin Salad with Red Onions and Lentils
Serves 4

Ingredients
1/4 small pumpkin or 1/2 butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes
4 garlic cloves, peeled and speared on a bamboo satay stick
4 small red onions, quartered lengthwise through the root
1 tsp sea salt
1 Tbsp hot paprika
1/4-1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
about 24 cherry tomatoes
1 cup cooked lentils, about 4 ounces
1 organic goat cheese, about 4 oz, crumbled
8 anchovy fillets
freshly squeezed juice of 1 large lemon
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
8-12 large sprigs of watercress (optional)

Method
Put the pumpkin or butternut cubes, garlic cloves and onion quarters in a plastic bag, add the salt and paprika and shake until well covered. Add half the olive oil and shake again.

Brush a roasting pan with 1 tablespoon of the oil, then arrange the pumpkin or butternut, garlic, and onions over the base. Add the tomatoes, brush with oil, and prick the tops with a toothpick. Trickle 1-2 tablespoons oil over the top and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Roast in a pre-heated oven at 400 0 F for 10 minutes, then remove the tomatoes just as the skins begin to split. Continue roasting until the onions and pumpkin or butternut are tender.

Remove from the oven and divide between 4 salad plates. To each plate add 2 tablespoons of cooked lentils, a quarter of the goat cheese, and 2 of the anchovy fillets. Sprinkle with lemon juice and about 2-4 teaspoons olive oil, then salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add sprigs of watercress, if using, and serve.

Italian Pumpkin Bean Soup
Serves 4

Ingredients
4 red bell peppers, halved and seeded
1/4 cup olive oil
4 onions
3 garlic cloves, crushed
3 lb pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes or wedges
1-1/2 cups chicken stock
6 oz cavalo nero or other cabbage, cut into 2-inch pieces
3 cups canned cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
fresh Parmesan cheese, cut into long shavings, to serve

Method
Put the peppers under a hot broiler, skin side up, and cook until the skins blacken. Transfer to a small saucepan, cover tightly with a lid and let stand for about 5-10 minutes to steam. Remove from the pan and scrape off and discard the skins. Cut each half into 3 pieces. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottom saucepan. Add the onions and sauté gently until softened and translucent. Add the garlic and sauté until golden. Add the pumpkin and toss until well covered with the flavored oil and lightly browned.

Add the stock and bring to a boil. Add the cavolo nero or cabbage and the reserved peppers, return to a boil, then simmer for a bout 6 minutes. Stir in the beans, add salt and pepper to taste, heat until bubbling, then serve sprinkled with shavings of fresh Parmesan.

Spicy Butternut Curry
Serves 4

Ingredients
2 Tbsp sunflower oil
1 Tbsp mustard seeds
1 lb butternut squash or pumpkin, peeled seeded and cut into 1 inch cubes
2 onions, finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and grated (optional)
pinch turmeric
4 chicken breasts, skinless and boneless, cut into 1 inch slices
1 lb tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 cup heavy cream
1 large package of spinach, about 1 lb
pinch ground cumin or garam masala
sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Method
Heat the oil in a non-stick skillet or wok, add the mustard seeds and stir fry until they pop. Add half the butternut or pumpkin and all of the onions and stir fry gently until the onions are softened and translucent. Add the garlic, ginger, salt and pepper and stir fry for 1 minute. Add the turmeric and stir fry for 1 minute more.

Add the chicken and stir fry until sealed on all sides, then add the tomatoes and remaining butternut and pumpkin. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for a bout 20 minutes, or until tender.

Add the cream, bring to a boil, and simmer, stirring, until thickened - the cream will first boil with large bubbles, then small. Remove from heat at this point or the cream will curdle. Add the spinach and cumin or garam masala, cover with a lid, and steam for 2 minutes until the leaves collapse. Adjust seasoning and serve.

Photograph of Spicy Butternut Curry by Debi Treloar / Pumpkin, Butternut and Squash