Goat Milk?

My son, Sebastian, is one year old and I've recently been mulling over what I'll give him to drink once he's weaned. The obvious answer is milk, cow milk specifically, but I have a few worries about it. Domingo Pinero, Ph.D., a professor of nutrition at New York University, notes that while much attention is given to bovine growth hormone in cow milk, he's more concerned with the stress hormone cortisol, which is chemically the same in bovine and human versions. Cows that are raised under stressful conditions--as most animals currently are--secrete higher amounts of cortisol into their milk, which we ingest. And that's not good, because cortisol causes blood pressure to rise and suppresses the immune system, and studies have shown that higher levels of cortisol lead to increased appetite and weight gain (see link between cortisol and obesity). None of these effects are something that I want for my child.

Pinero is in favor of giving dairy to children but suggested that I offer Sebastian goat milk instead of cow milk. While the idea of consuming goat milk might be unusual to those of us living in the U.S., more people around the globe consume goat milk than cow milk.

From a nutritional standpoint, there are many reasons to choose goat milk. The two types of milk contain similar amounts of protein and fat but that's where the similarity ends. Goat milk contains more calcium, phosphorus, potassium, and zinc as well as vitamins A, C and D. A recent study conducted at the University of Granada comparing goat milk versus cow milk concluded that iron is more readily available in goat milk and may therefore lessen the risk of iron-deficiency anemia, and that calcium is more readily absorbed into bones from goat milk.

Goat milk is more easily digested then cow milk due to the types of fat that it contains, and it has historically been used to treat ulcers due to its alkalinity.

Tom Warren of Stone and Thistle Farm in upstate New York says that in the U.S., goats are primarily raised on small family farms. Growing up on pasture rather than in factory farm pens, goats are likely to have far lower concentrations of cortisol in their milk. Not only is goat milk healthier, but buying it supports small family farms.

Goat milk has a tangier, more distinct flavor and aroma than cow milk, and the flavor changes slightly with the season as the goats find different plants to forage. I decided to introduce Sebastian to goat yogurt recently and began working it into my own cooking as well. When used in savory dishes, it adds a tangy note that perks up my recipes. When sweetened with fruit, the tanginess keeps the sweetness from becoming cloying. Sebastian is now a goat yogurt fanatic. For breakfast I often make a banana, almond butter, oatmeal goat yogurt shake, or I mix mashed squash or sweet potato into goat yogurt along with whole grain baby cereal--he loves them both.

In the Northeast, May is peak season for goat milk, but talk to farmers where you live at your local farmer's market to find the best yogurt, cheese and milk. To find a farmer's market or goat farm near you, check out www.localharvest.org.

Denise Warren of Stone and Thistle Farm adapted the following recipes from Goats Produce Too (1998) by Mary Jane Toth.

Goat Milk Yogurt Muffins
Makes about 24 two-inch muffins

Ingredients

2 cups plain goat milk yogurt

3 tablespoons melted butter

3/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

Method

Preheat oven to 400 F.

Stir the sour cream, buttermilk, and butter together in a mixing bowl. Sift in the remaining ingredients and stir as little as possible to incorporate--do not try to remove all the lumps. Fill greased muffin tins about two-thirds full and bake for 20 to 25 minutes.

Chocolate Goat Cheese Fudge
Makes about 64 squares

Ingredients

6 ounces semisweet chocolate chips
6 ounces plain soft goat cheese (chevre) at room temperature
2 tablespoons goat milk or cream
4 cups sifted powdered (confectioner's) sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts, peanuts,
or pecans (optional)

Method

Melt chocolate chips in a saucepan set over simmering water.

Meanwhile, beat the cheese and milk in an electric mixer until smooth. Beat in the sugar, a half cup at a time until smooth.

Blend in the melted chocolate, vanilla, salt, and optional nuts.

Press into a well-buttered eight- or nine-inch square baking pan and refrigerate overnight or until firm. Cut into one-inch squares before removing from the pan.

Strawberry-Rhubarb Goat Milk Ice Cream

This recipe of strawberry-rhubarb goat milk ice cream can feed a crowd; you can half it for family size or keep leftovers up to a month in the freezer.

1 cup sliced fresh rhubarb

3/4 cup honey

3-1/2 cups sliced fresh strawberries

1/2 cup maple syrup

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1-1/2 cups goat milk

1 (12-ounce) can evaporated skimmed milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

Method

In saucepan over medium heat, combine rhubarb and honey; cook 15 minutes, or until rhubarb is soft. Puree in food processor with half of strawberries, spoon into medium bowl and set aside.

Add remaining strawberries to food processor along with maple syrup and lemon juice. Pulse to coarsely chop. Stir into rhubarb mixture, cover and chill.

Stir in goat milk, evaporated milk and vanilla then pour into ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Alternatively, spoon into shallow eight-inch square metal pan; cover with plastic wrap and freeze until slushy. Stir well to prevent ice crystals from forming. Freeze again.