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Supporters of the growing local food movement have rushed to patronize local farmers, especially those practicing forms of sustainable agriculture. Yet these self-described "locavores" have paid less attention to fishers. It's no surprise, since most fish markets today sell imports from South America, Asia, and beyond.

But that is starting to change, at least on the East and West Coasts of the U.S. Locally caught seafood is now appearing in farmers markets, allowing some fishers a niche in the local food movement.

If the coasts cover your zip code, ask about fish at your farmers market and request a vendor if none exists.

Some Examples to Eat By

In North Carolina, fishers in Carteret County have come together to develop the Carteret Catch brand, selling their seafood directly to consumers at roadside stands and regional farmers markets. In Maine, the nonprofit Northwest Atlantic Marine Alliance is working with lobstermen, shrimpers, and other fishers to set up a community supported fisheries (CSFs). These collaborative effort helps link local fishers with nearby markets, restaurants, and consumers.

The community supported fishery model is gaining visibility as a way to guarantee a higher selling price for a sustainable product and satisfy fresh seafood lovers. Environmentalists also hope the CSF model will in time enable fishers to catch less and take pressure off of fisheries in decline.

The Alliance's Jennifer Plummer says that when fishers bring their catch to commercial auction, it's sorted by species, size, and quality to determine price. But in the CSF model, they sell their catch for a fixed price per pound, which may be slightly higher than the auction price.

One Maine CSF, Port Clyde Fresh Catch, charges individual consumers U.S. $420 for a 14-week subscription, which includes 8 to 12 pounds a week of wild-caught haddock, cod, flounder, hake, dabs, grey sole, monkfish, pollock, and redfish, depending on availability.

Caught in the Middle

If the coast is a long haul from where you shop, the best option when buying seafood is to consult the Green Guide's list of Best Fish For Your Health and The Sea's, Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch list or the Blue Ocean Institute's Seafood Guide for the most sustainable options at your seafood market or grocery store. (In fact, everybody should check the list, since local seafood doesn't always mean sustainable.)

For more on green eating, take Green Guide's Sustainable Food quiz.